Friday, October 29, 2010

Egypt (The Land of the Pharaohs and Baksheesh)

16th & 17th September (Days 36 & 37)

All thoughts now on the journey to Egypt. Thursday (16th) is spent packing before our 7am pick up on Friday from Linda’s. The schedule is tight but we make the journey from Swakopmund to Rivendell and then to the airport with time to spare before an overnight journey (via Johannesburg) arriving at Cairo at 7am on the 18th.


18th September (Day 38)

What a difference!!! After the peace and quiet of Namibia we have arrived in one of the most densely populated cities in the world. On our journey from the airport we are immediately struck by the noise, the number of people, the rubbish and the complete insanity of the roads. The Egyptian government has wasted a huge amount of money on road signs and lane painting which are completely ignored as cars battle four or five abreast with drivers sounding their horns and shouting at each other as they battle for road space. We realise, however, that the roads are not as dangerous as they first appear because drivers rarely manage to reach more than 5 – 10 km/hr. Our journey from airport to hotel (only a few kilometres) takes the best part of an hour and a half arriving at 9am. We store our bags (check in not being until mid day) and head out into the Zamalek district of Cairo. We are fortunate to meet a South African lady who lives in Cairo who walks with us,  advising us on travel, sightseeing and shopping. She is also kind enough to take us back to her apartment close by and give us a load of maps of Cairo and Egypt.
Our first task is to change travellers cheques but we fail as most banks are closed on Saturday. The May Fair Hotel wants full payment for our whole stay but we persuade them to accept one night as that is all we have from the Namibian pounds we changed at the airport. We then head to Thomas’ pizzeria recommended to us earlier by the South African lady and after early afternoon pizza we are ready for bed.
The hotel room is large which is probably the most positive thing about it  and our view from the balcony is pure Cairo (the back yards and rubbish of several crumbling turn of the century high rise buildings). The TV is in the room but all channels appear to be a grey fuss that make a buzzing sound. We mention this at reception and two employees spend an hour swapping and waggling aerial leads which one finds increasingly funny as the other becomes increasingly irate. Having obviously failed in their task they turn the television off (presumably thinking we haven’t noticed what they have been doing) and tell us the TV is now working and they leave. We are too tired to care and are soon asleep.

19th September (Day 39)

Michele and Vince spend most of the day trying to organise our Cairo stay and the remainder of our time in Egypt (using the free internet on the hotel terrace). Isaac, having completed some school work, watches DVD’s in the room.
Not to completely waste the day we decide to walk to the Cairo tower in the evening as it apparently offers superb views over the city as the sun sets and views of the pyramids in the distance. We set off confidently and seem well on our way to the tower when a local young man insists on walking with us to show us the way. He is very attentive, holding Michele and Isaac’s hand to cross roads. We actually cross back and for the same road a couple of times in order for him to hold Michele’s hand! Michele obviously makes a big impression on the guy who, once Vince is slightly out of earshot, tells her that he is in love with her. Michele then decides that we may enjoy our evening more just as a family and asks Vince to ‘get rid of him!!!’.
The views from the tower show much of the city and most tantalisingly through the mist we catch our first views of the great pyramids of Giza. The highlight of the visit is a lovely meal in the rotating restaurant at the top of the tower.




20th September (Day 40) .

While Michele and Isaac complete school work on the terrace, Vince sets off to get a SIM card and to change money. The SIM card is no problem but changing traveller’s cheques is not so easy. He finally finds an HSBC which will accept the cheques but only after visiting 5 or 6 other banks who refuse and so he is gone from the hotel for a good part of the morning.
As soon as Vince returns we all set off for the Tourist Information office in the centre of town. Travelling around Egypt and visiting Jordan may prove difficult and we decide to start by booking Alexandria and Luxor (including train travel). We will need to organise a Nile Cruise before we can proceed further.
Having discussed plans with the tourist office we visit the Windsor Hotel, an old colonial hotel in the heart of Cairo. It is a throwback to a more cosmopolitan Cairo that largely disappeared after Nasser’s 1952 coup when a quarter of a million foreigners were forced to leave the country. You could say that the atmosphere is literally peeling off the walls, but the bar feels a real throwback to an era that I am sure many tourists visiting Cairo would welcome a little more of.
The evening involves more planning and an early night.

21st September (Day 41)


Today we visit the great pyramids of Egypt. We have been warned about touts and overpriced taxis and we are pleased with the price of our metered taxi to Giza. Our naivety is demonstrated however as a man claiming to work for the site takes our tickets and us and leads us into the site to introduce us to ‘an official guide’. The guide is charming he takes us on a camel ride and the size and scope of the pyramids really are awe inspiring.


 We are enjoying our tour but doubts are cast over the expertise of our guide when he states that Cheops, the builder of the first great pyramid, died at the age of 122 and also that the Cheops, Chephren and Mycerinus the builders of the pyramids ruled from Luxor. Our doubts are confirmed when our guide, after taking us to the sphinx, insists that we leave the site to visit the other great tourist attraction-a perfume and papyrus shop ( this shop is apparently a must for all visitors to Giza!) We are given drinks and then for a bargain basement price of only a few thousand pounds given the unbelievable opportunity to buy goods from the shop. To be fair the owner of the shop is very understanding at our lack of interest, our guide, however, shows a different side to his nature as he quite forcibly offers to walk Vince to an ATM as he does not consider the tip offered for his services sufficient. The ensuing conversation is unpleasant and puts a downer on what had been a very enjoyable day. A valuable lesson had been learnt which is that to avoid this type of situation one has to be blunt with many of the locals, a bluntness that has to border on the downright rude! Our first opportunity to do this comes soon after shaking off our guide. As we are walking back to the entrance past the sphinx a local holds up his hand and shouts to us ‘take photo’. We oblige only to have him try to charge us 10 Egyptian pounds for the privilege! The resulting argument shows that we are coming to terms with dealings with many of the locals.
The day picks up as evening falls and we visit the Mena House hotel. A beautiful old building in the shadows of the pyramids originally built as a royal hunting lodge. It was the sight of the signing of the Camp David Agreement and a second world war meeting between Churchill and Roosevelt. Our taxi driver back to Mayfair Hotel gives us a good price, but better still informs us that he is one of the most famous taxi drivers in Egypt having been based at the Mena House for 50 years and he regales us with stories of the stars he has seen there.

22nd September (Day42)

Much to the delight of Isaac (not) today involves more sightseeing. We choose the bazaar Khan el Khalili which is given glowing reference in our guide book. Perhaps we have been jaded by the dirt, noise and relentless pestering of the locals wanting our money but the bazaar we see has in our opinion little more to offer than Carew or Splott markets back home.

The Mosques of Ibn Tulun and Sultan Hassan are far more impressive and it is understandable why our guide book describes them as the two Islamic monuments to see in Cairo. (To labour a point… we were quite understandably required to remove our shoes to enter the Mosque Ibn Tulun, we were, however, disappointed that despite having paid an entrance fee, the attendant refused to return our shoes without us paying him a tip).



We also call into the train station today to buy our train tickets for Alexandria and then Luxor. As soon as we enter the busy station a tourist police officer offers to help us sort out the tickets which he does, he then refuses to hand them over until we have given him a tip! Baksheesh!

23rd September (Day 43)

The Egyptian Museum today. This houses a magnificent collection, the wealth of the country’s history is only too apparent as many of the artefacts, which would be main attractions in other museums around the world, lie with minimal labelling in this sprawling old building. The highlights are the collection of Egyptian mummies (including mummies of many of the most powerful figures of the ancient world) and the Tutankhamen exhibition which we saw (what we now realise) was only a small fragment of in London.

24th September (day 44)

Another day and another argument with a Taxi driver who appears to invent an additional 40 Egyptian pound bill to the price shown on his meter. 
The sights we have seen have been awe inspiring.  The construction skills of the ancient Egyptians were truly amazing but of all the sights Vince certainly finds todays visit to Saqqara (the stepped pyramid after which the best beer in Egypt is named) the most impressive.

Zoser built the step pyramid about 2615 BC and the buildings here at Saqqara represent the first attempts at stone building in ancient Egypt. The stones used at the site are not big (demonstrating Egyptians hesitancy at working with this new material) but both the pyramid and the Funerary complex with its colonnaded corridor and frieze of cobras (the first examples of stone pillars and friezes known to exist) again demonstrate ancient Egyptians to have been a hugely resourceful and revolutionary race. When visiting the birth place of stone architecture here I am afraid that the sight of the crumbling buildings in the centre of Cairo coupled with the half-finished brick high rise accommodation (that resemble the towers found at the back of fire stations in the UK) constitutes a sad state of affairs for a people with such a rich architectural tradition.
The age of the Saqqara site is emphasised by the first known example of graffiti left by Egyptian tourists from the New Kingdom (1540-1069 BC) visiting what was already to them an ancient site.
We’re impressed with ourselves in being more clued up in that we refuse the guy who tries to insist that we have to buy an additional ticket to go into the step pyramid, (we later realise that you cannot enter it) and the ‘guide’ who tries to take our tickets and give us a tour. We snatch them back and guide ourselves around.
Having sent our taxi away we walk down to the car park to pick one up but are dismayed to find very few around. It’s Friday! We ask one driver who asks for a huge amount of money so we decide to walk down to the main gate to see if there are any more there and a very friendly guard helps us out by phoning one for us. Whilst we wait however, a taxi pulls in and tries to insist we get in but we don’t want to let the other guy down and explain he has phoned someone for us. A heated debate ensues between them with us feeling more awkward by the minute but they eventually agree that we should get in the taxi and we make a quick exit. So much for our earlier confidence!
The taxi takes us to the pyramids at Giza where we plan to wait for the sound and light show later that evening. When we get to the ticket office however a sign says that the show is cancelled as Andreas Botticelli is performing there the following evening and the stage is being set up by the Sphinx. We were aware of the concert and had actually phoned the tourist information in Giza from the museum yesterday to double check the light show was on, they assured us it was!! A wasted journey and very frustrating especially as we thought we had planned it properly. We haggle over another a taxi and head back to Cairo.

25th September (Day 45)










A rest day today packing ready for our trip to Alexandria. Michele colours her hair whilst Vince and Isaac head down a back street to Coiffure Engleze! Having all sorted out our hair we have a meal on ‘Imperial’ one of the many static Nile boat restaurants.

26th September (Day 46)


We are glad to leave the Mayfair Hotel for the last time at 8am as we head for our train to Alexandria.  We have first class tickets and we have a very comfortable two and a half hour journey north, arriving in Alexandria late morning. Whilst busy, Alexandria is nowhere near as busy as Cairo and the drive along the Mediterranean coast to our hotel (about 16km’s west of the town centre) is very picturesque.
Our argument for the day is with reception. We have booked a triple room for bed and breakfast for two adults and a ten year old boy. The hotel have this booking but tell us that it is their policy to make an additional charge for breakfast for children over 6. We argue with reception but they only relent after we inform them that we have e-mailed a complaint to the booking agent!!
After sorting this out we are happy just to relax and take advantage of the hotel pool and private beach.

27th September (Day 47)

A continuation of yesterday afternoon, taking advantage of the hotel facilities.  In the morning we visit the hotel’s private beach Isaac and Michele set off before Vince, fancying a dip in the sea. They put the valuables into the water proof bag. When Vince arrives about 40 minutes later they come out of the sea only to find that the 'waterproof bag’ does not really work and has partially filled with sea water! The water breaks a mobile phone and the camera (although the pictures are saved).
At dinner later in the hotel, Michele is definitely the loser on the ordering front. ‘The Chefs Special Salad’ appears to be sliced spam and pork luncheon meat on a bed of grated carrot, not the smoked veal on a dressed bed of lettuce that the menu promised.
Before leaving for food we had phoned for a toilet roll. We are disappointed not to find any upon our return, instead we find dressing gowns and realise that we have mistakenly been delivered toilet robes!

28th September (Day 48)


Site seeing in Alexandria is not extensive as much of the historical part of the city has been lost or, after an Earthquake, buried at sea. Work is underway to make Cleopatra’s palace, currently to be found under water in the harbour, accessible to tourists but as this work is not complete we make do with the Roman Theatre and Baths and the Catacombs of Kom. We have seen a number of sights recently and are happy to return to the hotel.
In the early evening we visit the Montazah palace, the royal family’s former residence. The palace is closed to the public, but the grounds can be visited. The visit proves very pleasant and unlike anything else we have so far experienced in Egypt. The grounds are green and tranquil and also a very popular spot for locals to visit and relax in. We really are very fortunate in the UK with our parkland.

29th September (day 49)

After breakfast we head to try and change traveller’s cheques. Again this is a big problem solved only at a branch of the HSBC and they take the best part of an hour to complete the transaction meaning that we manage to check out of the hotel just on time at 12 O’Clock.
Our train for Cairo is due to leave at 5pm so we spend the afternoon in the pool before taking another comfortable train journey, arriving back in Cairo at 8.30pm.
The comfort of our two train journeys so far has not really prepared us for our overnight trip from Cairo to Luxor. The platform is crowded even though we do not leave until 10pm. When we eventually find our seats they do not recline and are in a small dingy compartment at the end of carriage 1. It proves to be a long night for Vince and Michele, although Isaac sleeps well on a bed made from ruck sacs and blow up pillows.

30th September (Day 50)

We arrive two hours late into Luxor at about 9am. Having visited Tourist Information and some of the boats moored at the edge of the Nile in an attempt to organise a cruise, we stop at a café to have a drink. Vince decides to try to get credit for the phone and visit some more of the Nile boats. Whist walking along the river bank a local gardener approaches him and invites Vince back to his flat claiming he is very strong and could show Vince a very good time! He suggests they head into the bushes so he can show him his ‘hose’ to prove what a good time he can offer! In the best traditions of a certain red top newspaper Vince makes his excuses and leaves to report the incident to Michele who finds it very amusing.
Mid-morning we take the people ferry to The Nile Valley Hotel, and it soon becomes obvious that Michele has found a gem. The cost is the same as the May Fair, but we have a large air conditioned room with a balcony overlooking the pool (complete with pool bar) and the Nile.

 Apart from some phone calls trying to sort out a Nile Cruise we spend the rest of the day relaxing after what turned out to be a tiring journey. The food in the Hotel matches the other amenities and is served on a roof top terrace which has an outstanding view of the Luxor temple which is directly opposite across the Nile on the east bank and looks sensational lit up at night.


1st October (Day51)

Isaac drives the people ferry!!!!!!
After breakfast we take the people ferry (LE 1 or about 10 pence)
 and arrive at the Temple of Luxor. The Pylons behind the giant statues of Ramses II are one of the most recognisable images of Egypt and it was from here that the Obelisk that stands in the Palace de la Concorde in Paris was taken, leaving its partner lacking the original symmetry.  Vince and Michele are convinced that the impressive Colonade of Amenophis III has played a central role in at least one Agatha Christie movie.  Michele is in her element and feels as though she is in a Christie film; the only thing is Vince can’t decide whether she’s Miss Marple or Hercule Poirot! The whole temple is very impressive as is the avenue of sphinxes that lead over 4km to the temple at Karnak and is gradually being uncovered and renovated. The hope is that the avenue will run all the way to the Temple of Karnak as it did originally and houses are being demolished and people relocated in preparation for this.


After leaving the temple we visit Karnack travel and secure what appears to be a good deal on a seven night Nile Cruise (although we refuse to pay until we have been shown the boat and have checked out reviews on the internet).

2nd October (Day 52)

We spend today relaxing at the pool of the hotel (which also involves continuing work on Isaac’s school work).

3rd October (Day 53)

We leave at 7am to start exploring the West Bank and our first stop is The Valley of the Kings. On the drive we pass Howard Carters house and then arrive at the entrance. Our tickets give us access to the Valley and entrance to three of the 62 tombs that have been found there. Entrance to the tomb of Tutankhamun is extra and Michele and Isaac decide to pay to enter. His tomb is small with little decoration. All that remains in the tomb is Tutankhamun’s mummy and his sarcpphagus (now identified as being second hand). After leaving we visit the tombs of Ramses IV, Ramses III and Tutmosis III, these are far bigger with far more decoration on the tomb walls bringing home the fact that Tutankhamun ,who died at 19, was a briefly reigning Pharaoh who was hastily buried. The relative insignificance of his tomb goes a long way to explain the fact that it lay hidden for so long and can only lead one to wonder the extent of the riches that were originally entombed in the other larger resting palces.
Even at 8am we are uncomfortably hot and we find out later that Luxor is experiencing a mini heat wave as the temperature soars to 47 C. Isaac provides the comment of the day declaring  in the heat that he ‘picked the wrong day to wear his cotton pants’. We leave the valley and head for Dier el Bahri and Hatshepsut’s Mortuary Temple. The temple is described in our guide book as the finest building in Egypt ranking alongside the Parthenon and the Taj Mahal as one of the great buildings of the world. Built about 1460 BC the temple remained unknown in modern times, being completely buried until 1894. The building was the work of Hatshepsut and her architect Senmut. Hatsheptut (a name that sounds a little like ‘hot chicken soup’) was only the third Egyptian woman to rule as queen and the first to rule as king and she is regarded along with the likes of Ramses II as one of the most formidable figures in Egyptian history.  As one local told us she was their own ‘iron lady’. The magnificent Temple would certainly support her great significance.



We return to the hotel by 11:30 and cool off by the pool ready for the Nile Valley’s Egyptian night. The hotel has been fantastic but the night proves to be a bit of a disappointment. The food, particularly the rather tough beef, is not easy to get through and just as we are about to leave we become trapped by the arrival near the exit of the musicians and a male dancer. Isaac is first to be called upon to join the entertainers and despite his intense tiredness he performs manfully receiving (the only) enthusiastic ovation of the evening .Michele’s reaction to a dance in which the performers try to get all the ladies to join them in a belly dance type number is interesting to behold. The performers are very insistent and are succeeding in persuading even the most reluctant ladies to join them, that is until they reach Michele, and the Milford in her comes to the fore. She does not say a lot but her body language and glare are clear. Suffice to say that Michele does not dance as the performers retreat clear in the knowledge that to push the matter further would in all likelihood lead to serious physical damage.

4th October (Day 54)

We waste no time this morning and arrive at the Nile Story, our cruise boat, by 10:30am. We look around the boat and are very pleasantly surprised at its 5* status and so pay our very helpful guide from Karnack Travel, Ahmed. We then take full advantage of the sun deck and pool and have the place to ourselves as other guests enjoy the sights of Luxor.
Isaac relaxing on the boat with the Temple Of Luxor for company


 We only leave to take advantage of the first two of what are to be many ‘all you can eat buffets’. We assume that during our first lunch, where we are sat on a table with three German tourists, that we are our usual urbane and witty selves. Our delusions are shattered, however, when we arrive for dinner to find out that they have asked to be moved to another table!! We later learn that they have moved to a table of fellow Germans which makes us feel slightly better. The advantage is, however, that in a crowded restaurant the three of us have a large table to ourselves.

5th October (Day 55)

The boat is still in Luxor where we have already seen a number of the sights and we therefore stay on the boat (having it largely to ourselves again) whilst the remainder of the passengers in their large tour parties set off early sightseeing. The day is spent relaxing on the sun deck, eating and working on Isaac’s school work.
When the sightseers return the boat finally leaves Luxor at about 1.30pm and it is both interesting and relaxing to watch Egypt go by as we float gently down the Nile.

6th October (Day 56)

Our first guided tour starts at 8am when we meet Amr who takes us on a horse drawn carriage to the Temple of Horus at Edfu. The temple, the second largest in Egypt, is considered to be the best preserved with the original colouring evident everywhere. We have begun to recognise the pattern of many temples. Entering through the Pylons into an open court where ‘common folk’ were allowed to visit. This court is followed by Hypostyle halls (covered halls) which lead to Antechambers and eventually the Sanctuary of the God (in this case Horas) who resided in the temple. Amr is an entertaining, thoughtful guide and we spend an enjoyable couple of hours with him before returning to the boat to sail to Kom Ombo where at 5pm he once again meets us to show us the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris, telling us again much of what he told us in the morning as it is just as applicable!!!
 For Isaac the highlight of our visit to Kom Ombo is that as we arrive a floatilla of small boats surrounds ours as the locals throw clothes and other wares onto the boat.

 We are not sure how but we are sure that they will expect payment for the goods so Isaac sets about throwing them back with some relish and with good aim.

7th October (Day 57)

Today we arrive in Aswan and meet a new guide, Mohammed who sadly has been drafted in to take the place of Amr whose father has been taken ill. We set off for the Temple of Philae on the Island of Isis. The temple has been moved to the Island to prevent it from being submerged as a result of the building of the Aswan Dam. It is a good job that we are up to speed on Temples and the work of the Ptolemies as our new guide obviously has no interest in us or his job as he takes us round the temple at break neck speed. He then rushes us up to the Aswan dam before depositing us back as quickly as possible at the boat.

View of Lake Nasser from the High Dam

 He does try to sell us a rather expensive trip to Abu Simbel, but we decline opting instead to enjoy a more relaxing time for the remainder of our trip on the Nile, organising any sightseeing we may decide upon ourselves.  We are put off by the high cost of the trip, the fact that it would take 3hours by car to get there and another 3 back and also because the Temple has also been moved due to building of the dam and is said to have lost some of its impact as a result. We do get off the boat and find an Internet café in Aswan where we manage to book the Reef Oasis resort in Sharm-El-Sheik for the next part of our stay in Egypt.

8th, 9th & 10th October (Days 58, 59 & 60)


We decide to stay on the boat watching the sights at the edge of the Nil, having done all the sights on the way down. The Nile delta is a huge contrast from the rest of the country, the land is green and fertile but we should not recognise the living conditions of the local people as anything other than challenging.











 Isaac continues to do some school work and also some impressive DVD watching as he manages such feats as Rocky I – III without a break. We also manage to become fed up of buffet food and Isaac and Dad begin to crave Peter’s (or Clarkes) pie, chips, peas and gravy!!

11th, 12th & 13th October (Days 61, 62 & 63)

It is nice to return to the Nile Valley. On arriving at the West Bank we arrange a local taxi driver to pick us up on Tuesday morning at 7am to take us to the Valley of The Queens, the Ramessuem, the Mortuary Temple of Ramses III and the Colossi of Memmon.

Later on Monday we travel to the East Bank to buy some suitcases as we are finding the rucksacks to be difficult to lug about and lacking in space for packing. We make the mistake of taking a carriage and telling the driver what we are looking to buy. He takes it upon himself to take us to luggage shops and trying to broker a deal and then sell cases on to us. This leads to a very unsavoury argument as we explain that we do not require his help. He remains involved but after a lot of heated debate we reduce the price of a case from 600 Egyptian pounds down to 150 and then head back.
The next morning we are at the Valley of the Queens bright and early. Here there are over 70 tombs of queens, princes and princesses. Three are open to tourists Tomb 55 of Prince Amun-herhopshef killed in a smallpox epidemic during the reign of his father Rameses III, Tomb 44 of Prince Khaemweset and Tomb 52 of Queen Titi. These tombs are not on the same scale as those of the kings many having the appearance of just caves. The tombs we visit however are brightly decorated with painted decoration as opposed to carving as the friable limestone at this end of the mountain did not lend itself to carving.  
The other sites we visit are of a familiar design to us and it is not the individual temples that impress us as much as the density of sites in and around Luxor leading down to Aswan. The Pyramids are somewhat isolated in comparison but this area really does give one an impression of Egypt as an empire.
We spend the rest of the day at the hotel apart from Vince going over to meet Ahmed who has booked us flights to Sharm for a fraction of the price we could find on the internet.
The following day Michele is up early to catch the sunrise over the Temple opposite, a beautiful and relaxing sight with the roof terrace all to herself. We then relax at the hotel and catch up with emails and Isaac’s school work. We also look through the internet for places to stay in Mumbai for the four nights that we will be there. In the evening we have arranged a motor boat to take us up to the Temple of Karnak for the sound and light show which begins at 7.45pm. The boatman meets us at 7.00pm and insists that we have plenty of time and so takes us to a small café for a drink. By 7.20pmish we are getting a little restless and hurry things along but we have to wait until the waiter has stopped praying before we can pay the bill! We finally get back to the boat and head up the Nile and when we get to the mooring spot we realise the boatman was delaying things as he’s not meant to be mooring here, a police officer rushes up to speak to him as we make a quick exit. We sprint to the Temple and get there just as the show starts! So much for getting there early to look around as we had planned! The problems are all forgotten however once the show begins as it is really impressive and involves a commentary on the history of the Temple accompanied by lights and projected images. You are taken on a tour through the Temple, stopping at various places for the next part of the commentary until you come to the sacred lake where you sit for the remainder of the show. The Temple is similar in layout to the ones we have already seen but on a much larger scale, it is the largest Temple in Egypt and I think we did right in leaving the best until last, the others pale in comparison.
Karnak by night, one of the best sights in Egypt!

At the end we take our time making our way back through the Temple and are the last to leave. We find the boatman moored further down the Nile and Isaac helps him to steer us back to the Nile Valley hotel.
Isaac steers us home

Isaac heads to the room while Vince and Michele go to the roof terrace to share a bottle of wine and enjoy the view over the Nile, conscious that our time with this beautiful view is coming to an end.
Our last day in Luxor is spent once more trying to sort out some of our time in India and then packing our new suitcases. We enjoy the pool and the view one last time.

14th  - 28th October (Days 64-78)

We’re up early again and take a motor boat over to the east bank to meet Ahmed who will take us to the airport for our flight to Sharm. We arrive there by lunchtime and after some more haggling over taxi fares we arrive at the Reef Beach Resort where we are to spend the next two weeks, the longest we have spent in one place since we started our trip in August. We have chosen the resort for several reasons; a chance to have a bit of a break from moving around so much, it’s on the beach so a good chance to do some snorkelling and for Isaac to try diving for the first time and we also hope he’ll meet some children so he can have a play with people other than his mum and dad!

The Reef Oasis proves to be a good choice.  There is coral and a large variety of fish directly off the beach and we enjoy the snorkelling. In addition to our beach we also try snorkelling at Ras Mohammed which is a reserve about 40 minutes away by boat. Isaac proves to be a good underwater photographer and we shoot off 4 films. In addition to the snorkelling we also complete a discover scuba diving course and manage to get a closer look at the coral in two open water dives. Our instructor Bruni is great and he is very impressed with Isaac who he thinks is a natural who should complete the full PADI qualification.
















Sight-seeing was kept to a minimum but we did make an early start on the 25th October to visit St Catherine’s monastery at Mount Sinai where we gazed at the ‘burning bush’ (!) and in the Greek Orthodox church we lit candles for our loved ones. A lovely way to spend our 16th wedding anniversary.

St Catherine's Monastery with Mount Sinai in the background

                                                         
                                                    Vince, Isaac & the Burning Bush!

On the way back we stopped for lunch at Dahab, a town we had thought of visiting instead of Sharm. We had a decent lunch with very friendly people but we felt we had made the right decision in staying at Sharm as the place itself appeared half finished and quite derelict in places which is a shame as after the fishermen of the town were banned from fishing by UNESCO hotels were built to try and make a living from tourism. It appears that it started well but had tailed off for some reason. We then made the obligatory visit to the town’s bazaar where Isaac organised to borrow money from his dad to buy his mum a cartouche with her name on. Dad’s present was spending the money on mum!
The visit to Reef Oasis also proves to be a success when it comes to meeting new people, particularly Isaac who makes some lovely friends and has a fantastic time playing with them. He first meets Scott and Gavin two brothers from Aberdeen in Scotland with whom he enjoys hours in the Aqua Pool. They play on the slides in the pool and show ability far beyond their age and that of the other players in the daily volleyball and water polo games. A couple of days after meeting they are joined by Sam. The leader of the boy’s group is Arran who despite being a different side of 30 to the rest of the gang is the ring leader. Along with their parents the boys win the resort quiz and although Gavin and Scott had left for home the remainder win certificates in the sport challenge Olympics.















The only down side to the visit has been the dodgy stomachs experienced by so many, despite the ‘all inclusive’ tag the Brownes had to be very conservative in their diet resorting mainly to bread and pizza, the latter being made fresh in front of you. Isaac proved to be the healthiest of us all, mainly due to his pure pizza diet!

As the others gradually leave the Brownes are left at the resort alone and, grateful for a great couple of weeks, they prepare to continue on their travels.
With two days to spare before they leave for India the Brownes decide to stop off at the Suez Canal to witness the procession of large ships that make use of the water way in such large numbers. After searching the internet and reading so many bad reviews of Suez itself however, Vince finds a Mercure hotel in the town of Ismailia which overlooks Lake Timsah and offers good rates and a view of the ships coming through the canal. It also has a pool to keep Isaac happy. We then look into  the best and cheapest way to get from Sharm to Ismailia and after reading the guide book and the internet and talking to the staff at the resort we decide to take the bus. Most of the staff actually live in Cairo as it’s too expensive to get an apartment in Sharm and so they use it regularly. Vince sets out to get a taxi to the bus station but the resort taxis tried to persuade him to take one of their taxis to Ismailia, principally by lying about the bus fare! Vince persevered though and took a taxi to the bus station where the taxi driver was embarrassed about the lies about the bus fares and he helped to organise a local taxi driver to complete the trip at a cost which was only slightly higher than taking the bus but which would deliver us to the door of the hotel.



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